Enrico G
The hero of this fictionalised memoir is the author’s great-grandfather, Enrico Gardini. A real-life hero, Enrico is a courageous but ordinary man who, during the course of a well-travelled life, does extraordinary things. His memoir begins in the late 19th century, in a remote village in the Abruzzo mountains of Italy, where life is steeped in tradition and reliance on the olive harvest. Like many of his generation, he reluctantly emigrates to the USA to earn money to send home. Fortunately, Enrico has a special gift: he is a talented cook. This takes him from potato peeling on a trans-Atlantic rust bucket to a successful career as a respected New York chef, and eventually dining in first class on his final return voyage. During his very eventful life, he encounters merciless Abruzzo brigands, various bad-tempered chefs, numerous Italian mafiosi, and a few women of dubious virtue. But Enrico likes women; he even tries to understand them. And the women in his life have strong views, which they are not shy about voicing.
Conti’s Enrico tells his story with a delightful dead-pan humour and a deceptively simple manner. His wry asides reveal his private fears and honest good nature, right up to the point where his well-earned retirement is destroyed by the Nazi occupation of his Abruzzo home. There are some mouthwatering recipes, and a few less-specific poisonings. It’s a compelling, immersive, sometimes frightening read, but Conti also includes the harsh realities of rural poverty, enforced migration and the ignorant prejudice so many immigrant families endured. Thoroughly enjoyable. Highly recommended.
